“It’s the other side of grunge, the elegant early nineties”, Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock said backstage of the clothes of their collection. Buhai and Mayok know their fashion history, and for this collection, it was inspired by a time when jackets and coats came with padded shoulders, pants were full and sat at the natural waist, skirts were teeny-tiny short or flowing to the ground, and tops were sliced off at midriff or accented with daring cutouts. The girls, as always, showed off their subtle sense for color – a long silk skirt combined warm blocks of rust, navy, and gray to a beautiful effect. Their necklines are what caught my attention the most – the square neck of a long silk jersey dress (pictured above) looked ultra sexy, without trying hard at all.
Let your wild side roar! “I’m still interested in the connections between humans and animals,” Kit Willow said, “but this season, I wanted to explore the very formal way we dress to ride these beautiful horses.” This collection showed just that – snug, tailored riding jackets with high, fitted armholes; high-collared white cotton shirts; and a draped jodhpur. Although it does not resemble her previous collections of body-con dresses and unique edge, the designer’s attitude was still witnessed throughout certain pieces – a lacked leather neckline of a little black dress in tulle, the black and white check of a pair of high-waisted pants, and the horse-shoe shaped sequins of a sleeveless party top.
Z Spoke by Zac Posen
Zac Posen’s mission for his Fall 2011 collection this year was directly dedicated to the “consumer and retailer”, rather than focusing on “launching it to the media.” With pieces in mostly blacks, inky blues, grays, and a splash of pink, what’s not to love with these ultra-edgy looks? We also saw clingy sweater dresses, slinky cutout gowns, and unique takes on day-wear in wool and silk. Posen is definitely moving into his “original language” with his Z Spoke collection.