Oh. My. Gosh. I was obsessing (who am I kidding, I still am!) over this collection when I first saw it. Charlie Chaplin, clock gears/Steampunk runway backdrop, Dieselpunk-like garments – it was all so perfect and spoke to me so much! the biannual Galliano menswear extravaganza began with a tip of Charlie Chaplin’s bowler hat to his silent masterpiece, Modern Times
. Dressed as Chaplin, mustache eyebrow, defined cheekbones and all, model Scott Barnhill strutted out of a huge clock backdrop as Galliano’s exciting movie madness began. The designer wanted to make a statement about new proportions in menswear, and the shrunken jacket and baggy pants seemed like a perfect place to start. Chaplin was continuously seen on the catwalk by more of the models with pork-pie hats and grungy attire, all with a pensive and bleak, yet interestingly devious expressions and the way they stomped upon the runway (Galliano is truly as demanding a director as he is a designer). The finale involved formal-wear literally stripped – like the models – of everything that didn’t directly enhance the voluminous trousers and evening jackets, reconstructed with straps, zippers, and a confident attitude. With a surreal close, strobe lightning shined everywhere and the models crowded the catwalk, with Galliano strutting down the runway himself with his overly confident attitude (just look at his expression, and fishtail braids!) Take a look at the runway video here
– I’m obsessed.
: “An antidote to laziness,” was how Alber Elbazz described the collection for Lanvin’s menswear for Spring 2011. The aesthetic was all about mobility and urgency – to the point where some of the clothes had what seemed like an unfinished quality to them, with ragged seams swirling around the body and rough hems. I like the “almost sportswear” look some of these pieces had, like a lean striped top over what looked like biker shorts – a morph of high performance and something more conservative. Both Elbaz and partner in design, Lucas Ossendrijver, put great emphasis on textures. “You want to touch them,” said Ossendrijver, “it’s something intimate”. Intimacy is definitely defined in Lanvin’s womenswear; and together they have submerged. “When women can wear pants, men can wear jewelry”, Elbaz added of his big, bold, and barbaric accessories shown on his models. The truth is, this charm and intriguing essence of Lanvin has made it such an eye-grabber for retailers (no shocker since Lanvin is designing for H&M stores in just a couple of months!)
Designer Nicholas Kunz has taken inspiration from military garb from the start – boys and girls both got outfitted in super-lightweight parkas in olive, variously tweaked with detailed such as oversize hoods, distorted collars, ruched sleeves and lacing up the back. Underneath the coats were generally slouched tops which gave the collection a nomadic feel. I loved the feel of this collection – it was so laid back and almost sporty, but still wanted to make others think “hey, they look sleek”. There were great textures in the layered ensembles (I love the tapered cropped pants) and overall, I feel it was a strong collection.
The goal Simon Spurr had for his runway presentation was “a reinforcement of [his] British aesthetic. Quadrophenia done in a luxurious way.” The collection was definitely luxurious and as I first mentioned Spurr and his talent in a previous post, he succeeded again in showing us his amazing ability in men’s tailoring. The suits look expensive, chic, and well fitted on every model. This season, there was a safari thread woven throughout, borrowed from YSL’s seventies collection We can see sandy trenchcoats, sparrow-tail parkas, and khaki suiting. Also shown were interesting versions of jeans, masculine forms, paired with tailored blazers. Spurr is well aware of the spectrum of men and their interests, and I feel he can appeal to many.
So there you have it – my favorite collections for menswear s/s 2011! Do you have a favorite – who/why? Please share your thoughts! I love hearing from all of you 😀
**Also, if you have any suggestions for topics I can make for a how-to guide that you would like to know about, please let me know! Refer back to my first how-to guide here for an example (:
Until next time,